Sleeping in the ghost town of Doel.

A few years ago, I embarked on a thrilling motorbike ride to explore the village of Doel, nestled near the picturesque river Scheldt in the Waasland polder. Despite longstanding plans to expand the Port of Antwerp into Doel and demolish the village, impassioned protests have successfully halted these developments. A recent breakthrough on March 30, 2022, has secured the village’s right to endure.

Although Doel has been eerily transformed into a ghost town, a resilient community still calls it home. I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have secured a camping spot in a small private campground set up by a local resident in their backyard. As I spent the night atop the roof of my cherished English Defender, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience the enduring spirit of Doel.

After a scenic drive that lasted over an hour, I finally reached my destination in Doel, Antwerp. The initial snapshots taken with my Hasselblad beautifully captured the unique ambiance of the quaint city. Following a series of hectic days, I longed for tranquility and rejuvenation, and nothing revitalizes me like sleeping in the midst of nature. After locating a secluded camping spot, I eagerly tested out my new James Baroud rooftop tent. Here are some captivating images of my serene camping spot.

After finding a parking spot, I quickly took 2 minutes to prepare my meal. I was feeling drained and needed to refuel with some fresh food. With a breathtaking view of the cooling towers of the nearby famous power plant, I eagerly started my lunch.

I’m passionate about outdoor cooking, especially when it reconnects me to a simpler way of life. With minimal ingredients, I can create a satisfying dinner that brings me joy. As you can see in the photos, I’m enjoying complete solitude at this private camping spot. It’s an incredible experience, made even better by a glass of Golden Carolus Whiskey infused that adds a touch of luxury to my outdoor culinary adventures.

But we aren’t here to have a culinary highlight. We are here to give the Hasselblad a try at this abandoned city and capture it all.

More about Doel’s history: Until the 18th century, the village was an island surrounded by purposely flooded land, with the remainder, north of the village, known as “The Drowned Land of Saeftinghe”. The “Eylandt den Doel” is completely surrounded by old seawalls. The dike encloses the hamlets of “Saftingen”, “Rapenburg” and “Ouden Doel” (Olden Doel).

The Doel polder site is unique to Belgium and dates back to the Eighty Years War (1568–1648). The typical checkerboard pattern dates from 1614, when these geometric farmlands were first mapped, and they have seen little change over the years. This fact makes the village a rare example of regional urbanization. The village has many historic buildings, including the oldest stone windmill in the country (1611), and the only windmill on a sea wall. The Baroque Hooghuis (1613) is associated with the entourage and holdings of the famous 17th century Antwerp painter, Peter Paul Rubens.

Since 1965, there have been controversial plans to expand the Port of Antwerp, resulting in the proposed demolition of the historic village of Doel to make way for petrochemical industry development. This has caused significant upheaval, with many residents forced to sell their homes to the development corporation.

Since 1965, there have been plans to enlarge the Port of Antwerp and demolish the village of Doel to be replaced with petrochemical industry. This has led to many people having to sell their homes to the development corporation for that enlargement, however, some people resisted the plans. In the mid-1980s, the plans were halted only to be revived in 1995. Many historic buildings have already been demolished. As of September 1, 2009, people are no longer allowed to live in the village. As of 2021, there were still 19 people living in the village and 91 in the surrounding area. Some images show the state of the city today.

 

 

Following the distressing displacement of residents, there is now a ray of hope for the village of Doel. A landmark compromise was achieved on March 30, 2022, concluding a 24-year legal battle. A recent agreement has safeguarded the village’s right to exist, opening the door to its rejuvenation. Visible signs of restoration and reconstruction efforts are transforming the city, infusing vitality into its cherished historic structures.

Despite the exodus that began over two decades ago, Doel stands strong, defying its fate as a ghost village. The government’s plans for a new port area have shifted, with only a new terminal set to be built next to Doel. Now, the Flemish government, led by Minister Matthias Diependaele, is determined to revitalize Doel and find suitable housing solutions alongside the new 24-hour port terminal. Situated near Antwerp, with a nuclear power plant to the north and a harbor to the south along the Scheldt river, Doel’s potential for renewal is undeniable. It’s time to embrace this opportunity and breathe new life into this resilient village.

I was unaware of the city’s potential for preservation, so it was reassuring to see that the persistent efforts of the people had led to a victorious outcome. Continuing my stroll, I observed buildings with trees growing through the roofs, a testament to the enduring power of nature.

As the sun gently faded, I knew it was time to carefully stow away my Hasselblad camera. But not before seizing the stunning sunset over the grassland. Beside me stood an abandoned yurt, adding an extra layer of adventure to the camping experience.

At 9:30 pm, a gentle evening breeze beckoned me to bed. From the James Baroud rooftent, I captured a breathtaking image with my Hasselblad 907x, showcasing the unedited, natural beauty of the moment. Embracing an early night in the serene polders of Antwerp, the soothing sounds of an owl and chirping birds enveloped me, evoking a sense of safety and belonging. As I drifted off to sleep, I felt hopeful for the future of Doel, envisioning it once again as a thriving home for its people.

Gratitude, Mother Nature, for this tranquil moment.

 

Thank you

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