Outside is free: 166 km of solitude, stone, and silver.

Outside is free: 166 km of solitude, stone, and silver – what a treat!

The air was a crisp 8°C, and the sun was an intense, low-hanging orb, bathing the Dutch landscape in a warm, golden glow. As I crossed the border, I could feel the steady, rhythmic heartbeat of the Milwaukee-Eight under my feet, and I could feel the wind on my face as I rode from behind the “Sharknose” fairing of my Harley-Davidson Road Glide Limited.

The plan was to take a 166km loop to capture the beauty of three historic castles, and I was really excited to try out a roll of Kentmere Pan 400 B&W through my trusty Leica M-A.

The silence of the Kampina

I decided to go for the smaller roads, the ones that wind their way into the heart of the Kampina nature reserve, and boy, was that the right choice! The roads were lovely and smooth, and curly for miles and miles. The soft, velvety asphalt stretched through the raw, winter heathland, offering a sense of “Peace and Rest” found only in total solitude.

I totally get how it is when there’s no frost to soften the landscape. The world feels sharp, skeletal, and honest. It reminded me of the simple truth that defines these rides: And the best thing is, it’s completely free! All the beauty I was seeing didn’t require a ticket or a crowd; it just required the courage to face the cold and the will to go.

The Sentinels of Stone and Glass

To capture the beautiful “Light and Truth” of the architecture, I used two classic pieces of Leica glass: the 24mm and the 50mm f/2.

• Kasteel Maurick (Vught): I really wanted to capture this 15th-century sentinel on its island, and the 24mm was the perfect tool for the job! The sunlight hit the whitewashed walls with such a warm intensity that it made the film’s highlights look even brighter.
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  Kentmere

  

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• The Institute for the Deaf (Sint-Michielsgestel): As I wandered along the route, I couldn’t help but stop and take in the stunning sight of the monumental building of the former Rooms Katholiek Instituut for deaf. Its sheer scale and Neo-Gothic grandeur felt like a fourth castle, standing as a silent witness to history.
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  Kentmere
• Kasteel Heeswijk is a texture lover’s dream come true! With the 50mm, I was able to capture the “speklagen”—those stunning, intertwining bands of dark red brick and white stone. The lens tracked these 16th-century patterns with such precision, it was almost like magic!
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• Kasteel Stapelen (Boxtel): Oh, this one is definitely the most romantic of the three! Its beautiful Neo-Gothic turrets and grey stone walls were reflected in the tranquil waters of the Dommel. I used the 50mm to capture the beautiful, spiritual details of a site that had been a monastery for over a hundred years.
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  Kentmere

  

  Kentmere

  

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The Alchemy of the Basement

The day after the ride, the real magic happened. I headed down to the basement.

I’m really enjoying this ritual of getting into that cool, quiet space to develop the rolls. I was so excited to see the journey emerge from the chemistry using my trusty 20-year-old Jobo machine. I’m getting better at it every time, and I’m loving the analogue journey more and more with every roll.

The Verdict: A Beautiful Disconnect

But as the negatives dried, the truth came out. I just love the photos – the castles look so majestic, and the Jobo’s development is just perfect. I have to admit that I’m not quite as keen on the Kentmere film as I’d hoped. The Leica glass did its job, but the Kentmere felt a bit too “functional” for my taste. I really wanted it to have more of that poetic depth, soul in the grain and dramatic blacks, but it just didn’t quite hit the spot for me. It captured the light, but it didn’t quite capture the feeling of that 8°C sun.

The Journey Continues

166 kilometres. Luckily, not a single soul passed. It’s a perfect bike, made with world-class glass, and developed in my own little home workshop. I wouldn’t change a thing, not even a single mile. I’m still looking for the perfect silver halide, but the journey? The journey is already perfect, isn’t it? Because in the end, the road is open, and outside is free.

“The road was absolutely stunning, the castles were so timeless, and the basement was lovely and quiet. I’m not in love with the film, but I am in love with this life.”

Click here to ride this 166km loop of solitude yourself.

Thank you